Fashion emissions analysis finds most brands still off track for 1.5C ahead of COP28 climate talks
08 December 2023: As world leaders convene in Dubai for COP28 climate talks, environmental advocacy group Stand.earth released a new analysis that finds that despite fashion industry’s limited progress on reducing greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), most brands are still not on track to meet 1.5C pathway, nor are they following through on their commitments to the UN Fashion Charter for Climate Action made just two years ago at COP26 in Glasgow.
Analysis assesses 14 major global brands in fast fashion, luxury and athletic/outdoor subsectors. The fashion industry, responsible for up to 8% of global emissions, stands at a crucial juncture while discussions in Dubai push for tripling global renewable energy capacity by 2030 while phasing out coal by 2030.
“Fashion brands need to stop making empty promises and start delivering on clean energy deployment,” said Rachel Kitchin, Senior Corporate Climate Campaigner at Stand.earth, who is in Dubai for COP28. “As world leaders agree on the global need to increase renewables, phase out fossil fuels – especially coal – and support a fair energy transition, the fashion industry must move with it.”
Key findings:
– Despite progress, most fashion brands are still off track to meet the 1.5C pathway as well as their commitments to the UN Fashion Charter.
Nine out of the 14 fashion brands (Kering, Ralph Lauren, Nike, PUMA, Fast Retailing, Gap, Levi’s, H&M, and Inditex) reported an overall decline in emissions from 2018/2019 to end of 2022. However, if the current five-year trajectory continues to 2030, only Levi’s, Kering, Ralph Lauren, and Gap are projected to reduce emissions enough to meet or exceed their commitments to keep warming under 1.5C. The remaining nine brands will fail unless serious action is taken in their supply chains to phase out fossil fuels and transition to renewable energy.
– Most brands’ emissions increased again in 2022, casting doubt on fossil fuel phase-out prioritization.
In the past two years (i.e., 2021 and 2022), reported manufacturing emissions rose sharply among many brands, casting doubt on long-term emissions reduction targets. Eleven fashion brands increased emissions between 2021 and 2022: Chanel, Kering, LVMH, Ralph Lauren, Adidas, VF Corp, Lululemon, PUMA, Fast Retailing, Gap, and Inditex, with double-digit increases reported by Adidas (11%), VF Corp (19%), Lululemon (10%), Chanel (41%), LVMH (10%), and Ralph Lauren (13%).
– Only H&M, Levi’s and Nike showed a reduction in emissions for the past two years.
Continued emissions reductions from the giant flagship brands, while others continue to climb following their COVID-19 recovery, suggest that climate action is beginning to show progress. Now they need to be less shy and show us exactly how it happened – more transparency around practices will push up the leadership bar.
– Fast fashion brands are outperforming luxury and athletic/outdoor brands in decarbonization.
Perhaps surprisingly, of the three subsectors, fast fashion brands showed the most steady overall progress towards emissions reduction, while luxury and athletic or outdoor brands showed the most dramatic short and long-term changes. This is despite public statements made by LVMH’s Antoine Arnault that the nature of their pricey products is “sustainable by nature,” and can’t be compared with fast fashion. Chanel, LVMH, and Lululemon are all traveling dangerously in the wrong direction, having actually increased their manufacturing emissions above their baseline year of 2019, indicating that these luxury and athleisure icons must act quickly to prioritize people and the planet over their profits.
“By making public commitments and taking meaningful action within their supply chains to transition to renewable energy and phase out coal, fashion brands can not only meet their own climate responsibilities but can catalyze a wider shift to clean renewable energy that supports a fair and fast energy transition,” said Kitchin.
www.stand.earth
